The Inner Life of Broccoli

Last summer, I read this article about a Cornell plant scientist who is trying to breed a better broccoli. Most broccoli is grown in moist, cool, foggy places, like coastal California, and doesn't tolerate warm temperatures, particularly at night. As broccoli is near the top of my favorite veggie list, I was keenly interested in his quest to breed a better broccoli, one that reaches the market sweet and crisp. Though he has successfully bred an improved broccoli, it may be a while before it reaches a market near you. Until then, is there a take-away from this work? Sure is - cook your broccoli soon after you buy it! Like that same day. No, it will not taste like fresh picked but every day it sits in your crisper is another day towards increased funkiness, something most people find off-putting about broccoli. You can steam it, chill it down quickly in ice water, drain, and refrigerate it until you need it. Heat it up in the microwave or quickly sauté it. Steaming is better at preserving nutrients than boiling, so I don't usually boil green vegetables.

Remember the stems are tasty too (in fact, they are often sweeter than the florets), but the lower stem has a thick fibrous layer that should be peeled off. Start from the bottom and pull upwards towards the florets on the thick outer layer. It will peel off in pieces. You don't need to peel all the way up; just the lower part is fibrous.

Also, learn to pick the freshest bunches: not limp and rubbery, and with tight green heads and no yellowing.

Here's a recipe, originally for asparagus, that works just as well on broccoli:

Broccoli with Goat Cheese Sauce
(serves 4, costs $2.75)

1 pound broccoli, trimmed, and cut into florets and stem pieces sliced ¼" thick
1 oz. creamy goat cheese with herbs
1 Tablespoon mayonnaise
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
¼ teaspoon black pepper
1 ½ Tablespoon hot water
salt

Combine goat cheese, mayonnaise, lemon juice, black pepper, and hot water in a medium bowl. Whisk until the sauce is smooth.

Steam the broccoli for about 5 minutes until just tender. Dress with sauce and sprinkle lightly with salt. Serve immediately.

Adapted from Nutrition Action.com, Asparagus with Goat Cheese and Dill Sauce

Easy Summer Breakfast: Cheese and Peach Toast

This time of year, I'm figuring out all sorts of ways to get ripe peaches or nectarines into my cooking. This is an really simple way: pair them with a soft cheese on toast and eat it for breakfast or as a light snack.

I used goat cheese with herbs, but Neufchatel cheese (aka low-fat cream cheese) is tasty too. Toast a couple of slices of bread, smear on a bit of cheese, and top with slices of ripe, juicy peaches. It's a great combination.

Spinach, Red Pepper, and Goat Cheese Quiche

Spinach, Red Pepper, and Goat Cheese Quiche
(serves 8)

For the pastry:

1¾ cup all-purpose flour

Pinch of salt

1 stick cold, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1 large egg

2 Tablespoons ice water

For the filling:

1 box frozen, chopped spinach, thawed and drained very well

1 small jar roasted red peppers (about 1 pepper), drained and chopped into ¼“ dice

1½ cups half & half

2 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

1 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

½ pound (8 oz.) goat cheese log, cut into ¼-inch rounds

⅛ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

For the pastry, in a large bowl whisk the flour with the salt.  Using a pastry blender cut in the butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal.  Lightly beat the egg with the water.  Sprinkle over flour mixture.  Stir with a fork to lightly blend, then squeeze gently until a dough forms.  Pat into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°F. On a lightly floured surface, roll out pastry to a 14 inch round about ⅛ inch thick. Fit the round into a 10’ deep dish pie plate or quiche pan and trim the overhang. Refrigerate the pastry shell at least 20 minutes. Line the shell with foil and fill the pie with weights or rice. Place the pie pan on a sheet pan and bake until the pastry is firm, about 30 minutes. Remove the foil and weights and bake about 10 minutes longer or until golden brown.

For the filling, squeeze the spinach very dry and spread onto the cooled pastry shell.

In a medium bowl, whisk half & half, eggs, egg yolks, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Arrange goat cheese rounds and red peppers on the spinach. Pour custard into the shell, making sure it seeps through the spinach, and bake quiche about 40 minutes or until just set. Cool slightly before serving.